At the bottom of the page are some pictures, along with descriptions, of the system described in the instructions. It is not pretty since it has been in place for about 15 years, behind an outbuilding, collecting rainwater and is in dire need of cleaning and painting. Because the outbuilding will be enlarged, there is no longer space for the collection system behind it and the pictures were taken after the system was removed from the building.

The barrels used have a coarse threaded bung and a NPT threaded bung. The coarse threaded bung cap has a 3/4 inch NPT threaded hole in it. If both bungs have NPT threads, an adapter to fit the bung (1 1/2") and go down to 3/4 female NPT should be substituted for two of the caps. A 3/4" slip joint can be used, but isn't recommended.

It is recommended to have 2 people to do the construction.

The band that the barrels sit on is made by cutting each 2X8 into an 89 inch and an 18 1/2 inch piece. The short pieces are nailed across the ends of the long pieces. Attach the angle brackets, two per corner, one toward the top and one toward the bottom of the band.

The easiest way to insure that the stand is level is to cut the legs with the band in place. To do this, set the cap blocks into place where the legs will sit on them. Determine the height you want the band and measure the longest leg and cut it to length (see NOTES below). Place leg under band and hold the band level while the other person measures for the other legs.

NOTE: The longer the legs, the more pressure is available, however, the stand is quite narrow and topheavy, particularly when full, limiting height unless other precautions are taken to prevent the unit falling over. IT MUST BE INSTALLED LEVEL or it will fall over!! Screw in ground ties, used for aluminum buildings, out a few feet out from each corner, and cable would work fine, I think, if you wanted a taller stand. You also have to remember that you must get into the top of the 4" cross connector to check/clean the filter.

NOTE: Tops of all legs are notched the thickness of 2X8 into the side(s) and to a depth of 6" from the top - NOT full depth of 2X8. Corner legs are cut on 2 sides, middle legs on one side. This provides a shelf for the band to sit on to help support 8 lbs per gallon.

Place the band onto the legs and fasten the legs to the band. The middle legs are offset from the center. Measure over 54 inches from the outside of one corner leg and fasten the middle leg on that side, do the same on the opposite side, but measure from the other end of the band. Screws are best to fasten the legs on, but nails will work since the weight is borne by the notch and not by the hardware.

To make bracing, cut each of the 2X4X8 boards into a 45 inch, an 18 1/2 inch and 22 inch piece. Cut the 2X4X10 into two 59 1/2 inch pieces. When placing the cross-bracing, try to have the center of the diagonal fairly close to the center of the distance between the band and the ground - closer to the ground is better than higher. Make the diagonals low/high (from left to right) on one side and high/low on the other - see first photo - for added strength. When looking through the legs from one side to the other, the cross bracing should look like an "X". MAKE SURE LEGS ARE PLUMB (vertical) BEFORE ATTACHING CROSS BRACING - this is extremely important.

Fasten the 59 1/2 inch pieces diagonally between two of the legs that are furthest apart, and repeat for the other side. Do the same with the 45 inch piece between the other two legs on the length of the stand and repeat for the other side. Fasten the 22 inch pieces diagonally on each end of the stand between the legs.

Fasten the 18 1/2 inch pieces across the width of the stand, beneath the band, each one against one of the middle legs - these are to help prevent spreading of the stand.

When the stand is completed, it is time to fasten the straps into the top of the band. These need to be heavy-duty, as they'll be supporting the heads of the drums and preventing the top of the stand from spreading. The setup pictured uses 6-inch wide strips cut from an old plastic drum. The straps are fastened to the outside of the band and need to have enough length hanging down between the sides of the band to allow the drums to sit head to head and level. The easiest way to get the length right is to fasten the side that would be nearest the wall and just drape the straps over the band until construction of the collection part was finished, then fasten the other end of the straps in position.

Before starting, you should work out how you're going to attach your gutter downspout to the 4" inlet pipe that will put water into your barrels. The instructions use a capped piece of 4" pipe with a hole cut to fit the gutter downspout, which would, in most cases, require some fittings for the gutter downspout to get it to the PVC pipe. There are flexible pipes that can be connected to the gutter downspout that will work fine, but you will have to figure out how to make the connection to the 4" PVC inlet pipe (or the cross connector) on the system. PVC could be built over to meet the gutter downspout, or even all the way up to the gutter. There are probably other methods as well.

Screw 1 1/2 inch male NPT connectors into bung holes on drums and place the drums into the stand, on their side, with those bung holes turned to be at the lowest point.

Screw 3/4 inch male NPT connectors into the caps that go into the other bungs and screw in the caps if not already installed.

Build adapters to go from 1 1/2" to 3" and glue them into each of the 1 1/2" NPT connectors. Hold 3" cross connector between the two adapters and determine if any 3" pipe will be needed to bridge the gap, if so, cut and glue the pipe into the cross connector.

Build adapter to go from 3" to 3/4" and glue that into the bottom of the 3" cross connector. Then glue the cross connector into the adapters in the drums - WILL PROBABLY REQUIRE 2 PEOPLE. You can go ahead and glue a piece of 3/4" pipe into the 3/4" adaptor prior to gluing in the cross connector, if you like, but length is difficult to determine at this point.

Cut a short piece of 4" pipe, just long enough to make the connection between the 3" to 4" adapter (this adapter is one piece) and then glue into what will be the bottom of the 4" cross connector. Hold the 4" cross connector between the drums at a level that will put the bottom of the horizontal part of the cross even with the top of the top bungs and measure how long the 3" pipe will be. Cut the 3" pipe and glue it into the top of the 3" cross connector. Glue the 4" cross connector onto the 3" pipe with the horizontal part of the cross pointing toward the wall - perpendicular to the 3" cross connector.

Actual process for this step will be determined by the method you chose to get from your gutter downspout to the system. The method used in the pictured example is given. Glue the 4" cap onto the end of the 4" pipe and calculate how long the inlet pipe needs to be to fit between the wall and the 4" cross connector. Cut a hole in the cap/pipe to fit your gutter downspout, then glue the pipe into the cross connector with hole facing up.

Cut a short piece of 4" pipe, just long enough to make the connection between the top of the cross connector and the 4" female NPT connector. Glue the pipe into the cross connector, then glue the female NPT connector on top. This is where the 4" screw cap will go and allows access to the strainer that keeps out debris and mosquitoes.

In order to be able to easily remove the 3" drain strainer, I recommend drilling a hole in the center and gluing in a piece of 1/2" pipe for a handle. Determine the length after gluing it in and sitting the strainer into place. It must fit below the screw cap. Other material could be used for the handle, but any metal that rusts isn't recommended.

Once the strainer is completed, it can be put in place and the screw cap put on.

To make the overflow, hold a 4" 90 degree connector so that one end points toward the 4" cross connector and the other points down, in a position that will put the down pipe against or very near the stand. Measure how long the 4" pipe needs to be and cut that pipe. Glue the pipe into the 90 degree connector OR the cross connector - DO NOT GLUE INTO BOTH. Slip the unglued end of the pipe into the connector with the 90 degree conector pointing down.

Hold a 4" 90 degree connector at ground level, beneath the 90 degree connector on the collection setup, with one end pointing toward the other connector, and measure how long to cut the 4" pipe. Glue the 90 degree connector onto the end of the pipe and glue the other end of the pipe into the other connector so that the lower connector is pointing away from the building - this is your new downspout, so aim it accordingly before the glue sets, or leave lower 90 degree connector unglued so it can be turned to any direction needed.

Hold a level at the bottom of one of the 3/4" connectors in the top bung and use that level to calculate where the circulation overflow (see NOTE below) will enter the new downspout. Measure down about 4 inches (not critical, but must be sloping down from connector) below the level of the 3/4" connector and put a mark on each side of the downspout. Drill a hole on each side of the downsput that will accomodate a piece of 3/4" pipe. Cut 2 pieces of 3/4" pipe about 2" long and glue them carefully into the holes that were drilled. Allow the glue to set and smear a little more around the joint to help strengthen it.

NOTE: The circulation overflow helps to prevent stagnant odors when rainfall is abundant by taking water from the top of the storage area as water flows into the bottom.

Slide - DO NOT GLUE - a 90 degree connector onto each of the pipes on the sides of the downspout, with the end pointing toward the bungs. Measure the length of 3/4" pipe needed for each side (do each separately in case there is a difference), to allow for an 90 degree connector on the other end that will go directly into the NPT connector in the bungs. Slide - DO NOT GLUE - the pipes into the 90 degree connectors on the sides of the downspout and slide 90 degree connectors onto the ends.

Measure the lengths of the 3/4" pipe needed to reach between the NPT connector in each bung and the corresponding 90 degree connector coming off the downspout. One it is determined that the fit is good, glue these pipes into the NPT connectors and then to the 90 degree connectors nearest the bungs. Then glue the pipes going toward the downspouts into these 90 degree connectors and glue the other 90 degree connectors onto the pipes. DO NOT GLUE THE 90 DEGREE CONNECTORS NEAREST THE DOWNSPOUT TO THE PIPES COMING FROM THE DOWNSPOUT.

Remove the threaded cap and place some aquarium filter floss (polyester fiber) on top of the drain strainer, making sure that it is pressed down slightly beneath the horizontal part of the 4" cross connector. Replace the cap.

Connect gutter downspout into system and seal with caulk, or preferably, silicone. Sealing is important to prevent leaking that would allow water to get on the building wall and/or soak in near the building foundation.

If no 3/4" pipe is in the adapter in the bottom of the 3" cross connector, measure distance down to allow for a comfortable distance from the ground to have the spigot. Cut and glue the pipe into the adapter, then glue a 90 degree connector onto the lower end with end facing away from building and to one side of the downspout. Measure and cut a piece of 3/4" pipe to connect spigot/valve onto, and glue it into positon. Connect spigot/valve. Spigot can be fastened to a leg, or to an added piece of wood as in the pictured system.

WARNING: This system MUST be drained during freezing weather or the PVC will burst - leaving the spigot open will prevent problems from rain falling during cold weather. Check filter regularly to insure it isn't clogged, and replace floss when needed - leaves will tend to flow on through, but straw and other debris will tend to catch.

Painting is recommended since the color of PVC and many drums are not the best to fit into the landscape. To get latex paint to stick to plastic drums and PVC, scuff with sandpaper prior to painting. Two coats will probably be required.

This was taken as if you were facing the building. The PVC downspout part is not in place and you can see the lift pipe for the filter inside the 4" cross connector. The two circulation pipes can be seen coming from the top bungs out to where the PVC downspout should be. The horizontal board between the center leg and cross brace was put in place to support a spigot. You will note that the vertical pipe between the barrels is 4". This setup was not drained during the first winter and the 3" pipe froze, burst and was replaced with the 4" pipe. Part of the 3" pipe is still inside the larger pipe to keep the adapter that holds the filter. Also, you will notice that the straps beneath the heads of the barrels are not painted. They were added several years after the setup was in use, because the top of the band was spreading due to the weight of the water in the barrels, and never painted.

This shot shows the 4" cross connector and the inlet pipe going toward the building to accept the gutter downspout. You can see the hole toward the end of the inlet pipe (in the pictured system there were 2, one coming in from each side of the outbuilding). The PVC downspout goes opposite the inlet pipe, into the opening in the 4" cross connector. Circulation pipes can be seen as well.

Closeup of circulation pipe showing connection to bung and PVC downspout. This pipe makes water exit the top of the drum as fresh water comes in, when the drums are full, to prevent stagnant odors.

This is a closeup of the 3" cross connector and lower bung connections. Straight down is where the 3/4" pipe comes out that goes to the spigot.